Finally. It’s taken 20months of leading trad to climb my first ‘proper’ E1 yesterday. Not just a glorified 6m boulder route. It’s called Pinnacle Arete at Wharncliffe. You can check it here
The same day also top roped an E2 that I’m fairly certain I’d rather do over my boulder mat than with a rope on as I couldn’t find a placement on it.
And I spent my day with these two cracking people
O and find this little fellow while soloing. I nearly fell off!
It’s gritstone season, welcome to my backyard! If in the Sheffield area come say hi and share a nip of the strong stuff at a crag
It’s ages since I’ve put anything in here about climbing which probably has a lot to do with my hectic diary, state of mind and lack of climbing. I was persuaded however to head out to castle naze this weekend.
This is a brilliant little crag, probably with enough routes to keep you going 3 or 4 trips and of all grades from diff to e3 + check the UKC here .
Best thing about this place is the view. A beautiful rolling valley, little hamlets, raptor, farming and great rock.
Nothing was loose, belays were good and the rock lovely and grippy. Good belay stances too and the descent is about 30seconds!
Much love x
I’m very aware that I’ve slacked off writing on here, I’ve even avoided reading and commenting on blogs. And that sucks as I love you guys and I’ve done so.e cool bouldering recently. I guess the elephant in the room is Skye. I went up with a large group of climbers and had amazing experiences
I saw sea eagles and golden eagles
I climbed epic hills
Walked to beautiful places
And took a dip in the coldest freshest water you can imagine
And spent time with wicked brilliant beautiful people
But I also discovered fear. I hated the exposure on multipitches. Not helped by rolling a block on to my toe on the first day. I found it paralyzing and to the point where I struggled to lead anything of any grade. Which was frustrating and I felt had a negative impact on those around me.
I swore in the last day I wouldn’t multipitch again. I’m still at that point if I’m honest. Certainly not big ones anyhow which frustrates me as I love the way multipitch gets you somewhere. I don’t know how to overcome it
Check my van though 🙂
Another day at Stanage. Was good to get out with Gareth and climb some cracking mud grade climbs. Led 3 VS and 1 HVS and followed Gareth up 4 more.
Im so sorry, I went to Stanage, it was sunny, I climbed and didn’t take any pics. It was great to get the trad rack out and put a few routes up. I’d forgotten what it was like to trust a new belayer but we went with Nat’s friend, Peggy. Which is far more scary when you know she’s lead 8a before. Although it is nice when she says you lead something hard.
Here’s the logbook from yesterday
OK ok I know it’s nothing hard but I am the average climber
Bring on light nights x
OK so climbing grades are a pain. It would be bad enough them changing between countries but often bouldering gyms in the same city use different grading systems here are breakdowns f9r bouldering and climbing to show how they all compare.
Bring back the peak bouldering grade!
Climb strong x
It went, 4 weeks if trying and I sent V6…….woooooooooo. right one more pesky grade to go. Getting close to sending a 7a sport too. And another HVS has gone outdoors.