Just wanted to say hello to everyone on a Friday morning. The weather is miserable but it’s watering all our plants. Autumn is coming and bringing warm reds and oranges. Fruit is abundant. It’s the time of year to feel wrapped up in big fleeces and bobble hats, drink dark ale and eat hearty casseroles
So a couple of weeks ago I put up on Facebook that I was going to make some mid year resolutions and there were quite a few.
Eat more vegetarian
Give up caffeine
Practice yoga more out of class
Eat a little more consciously and a lot more vegetarian.
Be more mindful
Try and sleep better or at least get into a better routine.
Walk around barefoot more
Not beat myself up if I don’t achieve these
So a few weeks in an in thought I’d have a little reflection. As for eating myself and Nat had a vegan week which was good, cheaper although put a bodies went through a grim detox. We got into tofu and we’ve kept vegetarian dishes in the diet a little more.
Sleepwise I’ve had a few nights where I’ve slept 8hrs which for me is huge. I’m trying to put my phone down at 9.30pm and read a little more. This has been aided by me cutting coffee. I’m down to one in a morning which I now enjoy rather than it being necessary
The mindfulness hasn’t been as successful. At the moment work is piled up and my personal life is hectic. I’m struggling to find a place to be mindful. I would love to meditate but cannot find the headspace.
Yoga has also been a struggle with my teacher off for a few weeks and mynrushing around I haven’t done as planned but this can be remedied. I have also booked a yoga retreat which I’m nervous about but looking forward to trying.
Climbing is a great leveller. We are not trying to beat others (most of the time). All we are doing is challenging ourselves. To reach a grade, to get to the top of a wall or just to be fit. It is a very personal sport. This was brought home to me this weekend when I watched a friend top out a 6a+ up the main wall at Leeds. To me it’s a warm up but his shout of success at the top, watching him shake with exhaustion and commit to moves inspired me. I talk about my grades on here, and I follow people who are climbing silly high grades, but nothing separates us. We are all just trying to achieve personal goals
So the mrs was away which means I can play (climb) party (climb) and be naughty (climb harder?)
The weekend was epic as you will have seen and Monday started with a stunning hangover, a good session on woodhouse with Jack and Bex sorted that with my first climb of Centipede HS 4b and good for that grade, horrid top out below.
The evening culminated in a stunning sunset.
Tuesday was myself and Jack exploring at Hetchell Woods, great secluded venue and odd rock and climbs, requires a step back and a rethink. Led centurion (S4a) and walked away happy
Wednesday was another session at Wharncliffe where I had unfinished business. Introduced Dave to the great buttress then I put up Trapeze (HS4b) and then soloed Fly Wall (HS 4a) although where you are meant to place gear I haven’t a clue. I got in trouble for this photo….
Then last night I went back to the climbing works, first time since I bust my finger there, although nervous I quickly reestablished myself on the yellows and loved the setting. I had forgotten just how good the climbing works is.
Climb strong people and make the most of the summer
After climbing at Giggleswick yesterday I feel on a low today. In two ways really, I realised just how much finger strength I’ve lost and that I was climbing with a lot of superfit, excellent climbers and felt rather inferior in the fitness, keeping a track of fitness helps on days like today though….. my change from Jan 10th to last week…..
Well sort of. The finger is still knackered and not meant to be climbing but I couldn’t take horizontal life any more. Gentle 6a+ for now!
In the meantime I did the Yorkshire three peaks, Derwent valley, planned a van conversion, moved jobs to Leeds so I’m closer to climbing on a night and my other half is moving in so doing a lot of DIY (just how many clothes can one woman have… 3 wardrobes later)
Nat, my partner, isn’t a climber but is a free spirit who is more than happy to sit in the outdoors sketching while I boulder.
So something I plan to read into more in the next few weeks but a topic I seem to have discussed a lot in the last week or so.
Every climber has had it, the thoughts before you even pull on to a climb…’I can’t do this’ indoors ‘it’s above my usual grade’ halfway up a climb… ‘I can’t make this TAKE’
None of this is entirely true, how do we know we cannot complete a climb, what do grades really mean if you haven’t tried them, do we always yell take when we at our physical limit or is it our mental limit. I just finished reading a book by Alain Robert, you may know him as Spiderman, amazing guy but there is a section in his book where he discusses failing on a climb he should do easily. What is amazing is not that he failed but that he was thinking exactly the same on a solo 7c+ as I think on a highball 5+ and it is what links all climbers intrinsically, us average climbers can feel EXACTLY what the top guys feel just at our own grade.
At the end of last week I had my worst session for a long time, in The Works in Sheffield, I couldn’t complete problems I’d done a few days before,I couldn’t move anything above a 6a yet what was different? I was as fresh as ever, feeling strong, was in the right mental frame when I arrived….. I was climbing with someone different. Someone who didn’t push me, asked me why I was trying things I clearly could not finish, why not just climb the grades I could do….? The change in my ability was vast.
the following day I took another climber to The Depot, someone just pushing into the black grades, by the end of the session she had completed most of the black circuit, afterwards she thanked me for pushing her, not just helping her route read but yelling at her to get on the next hold, telling her to try things…. she improved a grade in a single session, not because physically she was stronger but mentally she believed she could do it.
Psychology…… I need to know more.
No E11's, no Yosemite, no hair-rasing solos, just the beautiful art from an average climber