Tag Archives: bouldering

Finally! En route to Fontainebleau 

With this crazy person

And these guys

Peace out xx

Advertisements

Spofforth Pinnacles

So the Skye post hasn’t gone up yet because I don’t know how to word it. Needless to say I’ve gone back to bouldering in a big way and that’s meant searching out some ‘new rock. I found a little crag on 27 crags app called Spofforth  Pinnacles and it looked pretty good. 

I was not however impressed on first sight….there should be rocks here….

However just over the hill I found something like a mini gritstone font. A field full of boulders and some fairly big ones at that 

I only managed to get 11 problems done as my skin was weak from the previous night but they were high quality on awesome sharp unpolished grit. And I was the only person there. I guess this is the bonus of climbing somewhere not in the guides.

Fantastic evening. Good grades from 3 to 6a+ couldn’t have enjoyed it more

This was helped by a beautiful bit of weather! 

UKClimbing link here

Peace out x

UKC News – IFSC announces Livestreaming Subscription Deal

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71029/ifsc_announces_livestreaming_subscription_deal

I read this with a heavy heart and I know many of my climbing friends are in a similar position. Climbing has always been a peripheral sport, one for those wishing to escape. I think this is the last nail in the coffin and truly announces climbing as mainstream and a sport to be commercialised and pumped for cash. 

I won’t be paying the subscription,  frankly I don’t want to support the system and with everything else I have going on I can’t afford it. I will miss watching the events but not £120 a year. It will be interesting to see how this works out for the IFSC they must be predicting a huge loss in viewers but how many they need to retain to make profit is unclear. I’m pleased that competitors have shared concern about the effect on audiences particularly that the subscription will help them reach a wider audience.  

I hope they put highlights up for free to ensure people still engage but looking at the deal I think this is unlikely.

Sad times, to to make our own events 🙂

X

Font Training week 1

So I’m trying to be a little more focused on improving my bouldering. My lead climbing has definitely suffered though. I’m trying to do something every day to improve or maintain my bouldering …. including my now weekly yoga. I even made it outdoors to Birchen Edge in the Peak District, UKC logbook here

I’m also trying to build in little things like extensor exercise and my indo board

I may also have eaten a LOT of cheese

Spring is here.  Be positive all x

Climbing Centre Review: City Bloc

Website here

City Bloc is a small indoor centre in Leeds and proud to be the oldest centre. I’m about to write a positive review but first we need to get through a few truths

Don’t go to City Bloc if….

  • You like warm centres, or warmth in general
  • You like state of the art walls or holds
  • You like nice changing rooms
  • You like easy straight forward bouldering problems where beta is obvious, you just need to be stronger the harder the grade.

This is an old centre and presents as such DO NOT LET THIS PUT YOU OFF

This centre has insane setting. Only the Climbing Works in Sheffield has given me more of a challenge in working problems. The holds are not ultra modern but they are much more like climbing on real rock. The beta is tough (did I mention it’s hard) even the easy problems have to be thought out, often sideways is the best way up. Problems have to be worked and they are doable if you keep going.  Myself and Amy have found challenges for us both and problems only one of us can do so it is not just a centre where a long reach really helps. 

What we have both found interesting is the huge range of volumes on the walls,  unusual shapes and textures that really make you think and move, they’re in for every problem, and many problems just have a start and finish hold with volumes between. 

 It’s also high, feeling far above the lab and depot, the other local walls. It’s small but because things are a challenge you tend not to move too much and you never seem to be short of space. 
The staff are amazingly friendly and if you’re really struggling on problems they’re happy to give you a  pointer, or as tonight point you to someone who can do it. The standard of climbing throughout the centre appears exceptionally high.

Give this place a try, don’t Base your experience on how it looks, Base it on the climbing. 

Prepare to lose skin, I have for the first time in months