This is the best book I have read in many years. Do not be put off that it is set in the fell running world. It is aimed at anyone with a passion in the outdoors, often that others don’t understand. The author is superb and the setting beautiful! It’s like finding you’re not the only person to think this way.
And in other news, back outdoors bouldering. Jug for a thug at Shipley Glen on crisp rock mmmmm
On a break with my Mrs. Got convinced to have a massage at the rather nice and amazingly cheap Gellert Spa. The masseuse did a quick evaluation and told me I’d had a left arm injury,proceeded to pick the finger I’d injured and do a full sports massage. My arms have never felt so relaxed.
He also told me to do more yoga, stretch more and drink more water. Also memorably told me ‘please don’t shit yourself’ before ironing my back out.
Places to recommend eating- Huszar, Ecke22 and the For Sale Pub. Everywhere we have had great service especially the Huszar restaurant.
So, this is the bend I had in my finger after rupturing the A2 pulley. The first thing I knew about it was a loud crack and intense pain. The next I knew I hit the floor in more pain than I’d ever felt. I’d been crimping through a simple V4 edge and my weighted foot slipped slightly increasing the weight in my fingers.
As the pain relented and I knew it wasn’t broken (about 15mins) I tried to go back on the wall. In this situation DON’T! The next morning with now no bend in my finger I presented at minor injuries. They strapped my fingers in such a way to force my injured finger to bend slightly to keep it supple. Pay attention to the Dr/nurse at this point. I was prescribed ibruprofen and paracetamol and told to take 3-4 months off sports and 6months off climbing.
Progress was slow for the first 2 weeks with every morning the pain of massaging movement back into the finger. Changing gear, typing, indicating have all had to change.
Recovery really started when I started to use ice and massage on a regular basis. I spoke to the guys at The Depot in Leeds who advised massage putty. Listen to this advice. Gripsavers force too much pressure on the abductors. The presses are far too hard. I bought the easiest grade putty and have followed a strict morning routine. Usually sat in traffic on a morning.
I’m 3 months in now and back climbing v4 boulder 6a+ sport. I can’t touch a left hand crimp or pinch still but I have noticed a vast increase in strength since starting climbing again.
-Go to hospital, have scans
-get advice from climbers don’t trust the internet (o the irony)
-take painkillers, try ice treatment, have a go with the putty.
– rest. You are looking at 3-6 months out. Use the time productively.
The putty is great, I’ve found it helpful for warming up my other hand too. https://www.theclimbingdepot.co.uk/shop/product/rock-technologies-power-putty-easy-med-hard
Well sort of. The finger is still knackered and not meant to be climbing but I couldn’t take horizontal life any more. Gentle 6a+ for now!
In the meantime I did the Yorkshire three peaks, Derwent valley, planned a van conversion, moved jobs to Leeds so I’m closer to climbing on a night and my other half is moving in so doing a lot of DIY (just how many clothes can one woman have… 3 wardrobes later)
Nat, my partner, isn’t a climber but is a free spirit who is more than happy to sit in the outdoors sketching while I boulder.
So coming back from Font I found myself stronger than I ever had been, walking through some V5 and V6 boulders then cleaning a couple of 6b+ and starting to look with interest at 6c/7a. Then down at the depot on the new black circuit I was crimping through a few decent holds and ready to reach for a good right hand when there was a loud pop. Loud enough for a dozen or so people to turn round and watch me hit the mat in pain.
As is now clear, I’ve ruptured my A2 pulley in my left ring finger, a bit of googling shows the all too common nature of this, there’s nothing to predict it but it means months out. I can#t really lift weight on it, not do pull ups, so currently in the post injury slump. Planning to start running, I have the Yorkshire Three Peaks happening in a month or so and a new job but disappointed to lose my new found form and feeling a little lost as to what to do with evenings and weekends.
I guess it’s time to sort some new goals out, lose that fat that has been hanging around, ge some cardio fitness, learn to run, bash out those situps….. any suggestions people…..?
No E11's, no Yosemite, no hair-rasing solos, just the beautiful art from an average climber