Another week of good health and good climbing, bouldering rules the plans right now, after an amazing session at The Depot where my grades flew I had a less than average session in the works although I was tired.
I approached a session back on sports routes with trepidation on Thursday then spent the night bouldering, Crimping through a V5 that noone else could touch was a huge deal not to show off but to get a benchmark of where I’d improved against people I regularly climb with. I’ve also noticed a vast improvement in my route reading.
Spain booked, 4 weeks until multi pitch / sport routes in Costa Blanca, I need to learn to climb for more than 5m!!!
Amazing how quickly the body changes and adapts.
A great week, trad on Burbage and two good sessions in the works, pushing into the 6b 6c territory which is totally unexplored for myself. I do admit that the climbs I’m pushing tend to be strength, burly style problems but even so it’s good to see the grades becoming more attainable.
In other news I reengaged with an old favourite band. Out Damned Spot, you can find them here and listen to all their music (and buy it for seriously cheap!!)
So not much exercise, an excess of paracetemol and a few sessions climbing.
Last Sunday feeling rough, but birthday group en masse we went out to Wharncliffe, my first time on the rock there and had a great day. Routes are 8-12m occasionally higher. Shifted 5 lead climbs, with Chris out due to a broken arm it fell on me to do the leading and that was a huge push to stretch myself. The shiny cams and quickdraws got their first scratches and scrapes 🙂
Also strayed into the 6a+ & 6b routes in the Works and shifted a steady V4/5 at the depot. The week has to be considered progress by any means. Hopefully a good session on Burbage tomorrow
On another note, new Pinkle route at the works……torture, pure torture.
Being ill sucks, the fourth time in 4 weeks really sucks but then doing a job around children as it gets colder and wetter just isn’t conducive to staying well.
In better news two training sessions this week to follow up the three from last week. Not many routes done at Awesome Walls but included in these few was a sweet 6b+ constant small crimps, good but technically placed footholds and a sweet overhang move. There was a fall on it but still finished on the first attempt.
Followed by a great session at The Works finishing the majority of the yellow 6a+ routes and moving into some of the black finishing one set at a 6b (ish) The new shoes have bedded in perfectly and feel like gloves, the trust in being able to stand up on small chips makes such a difference.
Right aim for the next week….get well, run, gym session, 2 climbing sessions…..eat healthy
This year I’ve slowly put together a gear rack for trad and sport. There are many ways of putting together a rack, secondhand, cheap from Ebay or wade right in and splash out. Try and read reviews of the gear you are buying, buy from trusted sources and remember that gear bought secondhand, you don’t know where it’s been- picked up from a crag, stuck in a wall for two months, fallen on, dropped or perfectly safe.
Sports Direct sell DMM gear at a fantastic price, way less than any of the main climbing shops. http://www.sportsdirect.com/dmm Run a google search for ‘Sports Direct Voucher Codes’ and you will always find another 10-20% off
DMM- Shorty Rope 30m
DMM- Wall nuts 1-11
DMM Dragon Camms 00 – 3
DMM Slings 2m / 60cm
DMM Spectre Quickdraws (10)
Grivel Master Belay ATC and matching Locking Crab
DMM Aero Locking Carabiners
DMM BOA Carabiner (HMS Style)
Black Diamond ‘Aspect’ Harness (Women’s Medium, don’t be afraid of trying on both men’s and women’s harnesses, buy the right one for your body type!!)
La Sportiva Miura Shoes- great for steep stuff, horrible to walk in. I’m just breaking these in
Scarpa Force- My first proper shoes, still useful for trad but totally wrecked
Metolius Chalk bag- bright orange
Coleman Head Torch (always take a headtorch if climbing in the evening)
So right now, I’ve been ill for pretty much a month and I’m seriously unfit but here goes anyhow:
I climb in all different styles, indoor and outdoor, boulder, trad, sport. I know most of the elite athletes focus on one and that helps them perform but hey, I love it all!
My Logbook: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=191901
Indoor top grades:
Foundry- Lead 6b/+ Awesome Walls – Lead 6a+ Leeds Wall – Lead 6b
None of these grades are comfortable, they were just odd climbs I found I can do.
Climbing Works- comfortable on the Purple & Pink, pushing the yellow
The Depot Leeds- Black, some red, few wood.
Climbing twice a week, golfing once and an occasional gym session means I’m generally fairly fit, but with a shocking diet I’m not your skinny guy, weighing in at 13st 4lb
So my aim, to improve the grades I’m climbing, and to lose that weight and tone up!