Right positive….. opening up a new crag

So I’ve been driving past this little place for ages wondering if it can be climbed. 

I’ve researched it and can’t find a thing about it. Given the state of the rock I can’t believe it has been climbed so I’m claiming some first ascents. I’ll get everything up on UKC as I go but still a lot of cleaning to go, so much loose rock, weeds, loose grit and spiders 

The right end is pure rubbish with rock improving and growing in height to the left. So starting at the right

Take a Break f3+ Sit start, dynamic feeling move to the break. Smear up to the top
Grot f2+ The 2nd wall from the wall. Chossy rubbish
Grot Arete f3. Arete to the left of grot climbed on the right
Up and Under f4. A little reachy, straight up under the bush. Clean wall on good rock to the left of Grot Arete
When in Need f4+. Sitting down start to the left of the sign. Make a move to the thin pocket and reach for crimps.
Noughts HS 4b. Starting on the two undercut sidepulls work through the obvious pockets staying left of the crack
Crosses S 4a. Keeping to the crackline right of Noughts. (Photo was from me cleaning the route!)
Monks’ Traverse f5. Starting at the right hand wall traverse at mid height to the arete left of the hydrant sign

Climb strong people x


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