Gear Review, 5.10 Verdon

In a sentence, do not buy.  As the injury has healed and I’m back on the steep thin stuff I’ve felt my Scarpa Velocity’s starting to struggle so I knew the time was right for some new boots.

After trying on a number of pairs from various makes I went for the Verdon,  simply the best fitting and nicely aggressive while still flexible  enough for slabs (and they look really cool, especially the orange flashing).

I bought 3 half sizes down from my usual size and though tight were definitely the right size to break in. The good news is that I had a great session; the rubber is super sticky, the toe found everything and I shifted a V5 project. Sadly, that’s where the good news, and my ownership of these shoes ended.

The bad news is that these are the first shoe designed and brought out under the Adidas ownership, sad to say but the quality is shoddy. The stitching on the loops at the back of the shoe is so bad they rubbed me to bleeding, on both feet. I thought this may have just been them being new so resolved to keep going. The next day I went to pull the right shoe on and the tongue pulled clean off down the right side.  Realising there was an issue with the stitching I contacted 5.10, they have had so many complaints they’re recalling. Fortunately the shop exchanged them without quibble.

There is also a major design issue, there is 30 inches spare on the laces, so much so you can knot them 4 times, under, over, under and over the shoe. This is so bad I spent the night treading on my laces and struggling,  fine on bouldering,  but think about pulling past gear/karabiners.

Simply not good enough, come on 5.10, we want to love you!!!!!

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11 thoughts on “Gear Review, 5.10 Verdon”

  1. Wow – they really did fall down with those didn’t they! I have to admit that I’m a size 8 and buy size 8 climbing boots. They feel tight enough to me and I wouldn’t want to have them even tighter! 😮
    Carol.

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      1. Used to thing I was bad on the steep stuff and caves and the best thing I was told was that everyone is until they start doing it and falling off, weak by weak the improvements happen

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      2. I need to fall off more – I still have an aversion to it and I need to get past that. It’s not like I’m leading! Funnily though, I’m more averse to falling off indoors than outdoors – perhaps the larger audience!

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  2. Wow. Wondering if we could share a snippet of this post on WeighMyRack and then link back to your blog for the full review. This is definitely helpful info for climbers debating the Verdons. eek!

    Aside: Andreas is testing out the Quantum’s right now, and fortunately, he hasn’t had any of those problems.

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