So, this is the bend I had in my finger after rupturing the A2 pulley. The first thing I knew about it was a loud crack and intense pain. The next I knew I hit the floor in more pain than I’d ever felt. I’d been crimping through a simple V4 edge and my weighted foot slipped slightly increasing the weight in my fingers.
As the pain relented and I knew it wasn’t broken (about 15mins) I tried to go back on the wall. In this situation DON’T! The next morning with now no bend in my finger I presented at minor injuries. They strapped my fingers in such a way to force my injured finger to bend slightly to keep it supple. Pay attention to the Dr/nurse at this point. I was prescribed ibruprofen and paracetamol and told to take 3-4 months off sports and 6months off climbing.
Progress was slow for the first 2 weeks with every morning the pain of massaging movement back into the finger. Changing gear, typing, indicating have all had to change.
Recovery really started when I started to use ice and massage on a regular basis. I spoke to the guys at The Depot in Leeds who advised massage putty. Listen to this advice. Gripsavers force too much pressure on the abductors. The presses are far too hard. I bought the easiest grade putty and have followed a strict morning routine. Usually sat in traffic on a morning.
I’m 3 months in now and back climbing v4 boulder 6a+ sport. I can’t touch a left hand crimp or pinch still but I have noticed a vast increase in strength since starting climbing again.
-Go to hospital, have scans
-get advice from climbers don’t trust the internet (o the irony)
-take painkillers, try ice treatment, have a go with the putty.
– rest. You are looking at 3-6 months out. Use the time productively.
The putty is great, I’ve found it helpful for warming up my other hand too. https://www.theclimbingdepot.co.uk/shop/product/rock-technologies-power-putty-easy-med-hard