Ruptured pulley….

Ruptured pulley

So, this is the bend I had in my finger after rupturing the A2 pulley. The first thing I knew about it was a loud crack and intense pain. The next I knew I hit the floor in more pain than I’d ever felt. I’d been crimping through a simple V4 edge and my weighted foot slipped slightly increasing the weight in my fingers.

As the pain relented and I knew it wasn’t broken (about 15mins) I tried to go back on the wall. In this situation DON’T!  The next morning with now no bend in my finger I presented at minor injuries. They strapped my fingers in such a way to force my injured finger to bend slightly to keep it supple. Pay attention to the Dr/nurse at this point. I was prescribed ibruprofen and paracetamol and told to take 3-4 months off sports and 6months off climbing.

Progress was slow for the first 2 weeks with every morning the pain of massaging movement back into the finger. Changing gear, typing, indicating have all had to change.

Recovery really started when I started to use ice and massage on a regular basis. I spoke to the guys at The Depot in Leeds who advised massage putty. Listen to this advice. Gripsavers force too much pressure on the abductors. The presses are far too hard. I bought the easiest grade putty and have followed a strict morning routine. Usually sat in traffic on a morning.

I’m 3 months in now and back climbing v4 boulder 6a+ sport. I can’t touch a left hand crimp or pinch still but I have noticed a vast increase in strength since starting climbing again.

Main points-

-Go to hospital, have scans


-get advice from climbers don’t trust the internet (o the irony)

-take painkillers, try ice treatment, have a go with the putty.

– rest. You are looking at 3-6 months out. Use the time productively.

The putty is great, I’ve found it helpful for warming up my other hand too.


4 thoughts on “Ruptured pulley….”

  1. That’s all excellent advice. I have to admit though that, if I hurt myself at ‘the wall’, I just go home to let it recover – I’d never try to get back on whether the pain had gone or not. I usually find that, with my ageing body, at least an overnight is needed to sort even the most minor strain out.

    Not heard of massage putty but a good idea to incorporate it into your morning drive to work!

    Wish we had a minor injuries unit or a drop-in centre or something around here – but I suppose that’s what you (don’t) get if you live in a rural area and I wouldn’t change that…

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Damm – that’s really tough and frustrating. I’m pleased that it’s getting better though and hope the finger is back to normal soon.

    I’ve been reading the latest Dave Macleod book (Make or Break) and it’s very interesting what it has to say about finger injuries and climbing injuries in general. I’d certainly recommend it.


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